Casin dei Nobili's emblem is a mildly saucy rendition of two nubile young things, and signs at the bar cheekily refer to matters like how much half an hour costs and warnings not to manhandle the girls until you've paid the madam. None too subtle hints at the building's history.
Nubile young things are still employed here, but now they bring menus, wine and food, and a welcoming smile that's a refreshing change in a city with its fair share of sullen waiting staff. Our own NYT was especially cheerful and keen to practice her English. At one point her enthusiasm got the better of her and a plate of food destined for the next table dropped from her hand to the floor with a crash. No matter. She still smiled.
We shared a plate of warm seafood antipasti – octopus and squid and prawns and other things – then whole bass baked with thinly sliced potatoes and a crispy, salty, lemony fritto misto. All excellent. We skipped dessert, but couldn't resist a liquirizia with our coffee. We've come to know these licorice-cough-medicine drinks as 'Berties', for reasons which some of you will fathom, and I think they've become mildly addictive.
We left some time later, the happier, warmer, slightly fuzzier and fuller, and feeling distinctly less nubile than when we'd arrived.
Ristorante - Pizzeria Casin dei Nobili, Venezia, S. Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2765
Tel 041 241 1841
It's reassuring somehow that a restaurant can drum up so much custom without having its own website (or one that I can find).
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