L'Asino D'Oro, Orvieto, Umbria

We'd eaten here before. The first time, a lazy lunch, outside in the little alleyway, of traditional dishes with a twist – like lasagne made with bread instead of pasta. Our return visit to L'Asino D'Oro found chef Lucio Sforza firmly in residence.

It was a warm and busy September Saturday evening. Light and easy-going by day, the old town took on a different, darker personality as night drew in and we picked our way through its arteries to Orvieto's medieval heart. It was no surprise that by 8.30pm, when we arrived, all of the restaurant's outside tables were either occupied or reserved and we were invited to sit at one of only two tables inside.

The room was starkly bare. Pale ceramic tiles covered the walls, which were adorned by two ancient mirrors. The floor was dark wood, the colour of old tobacco. The tables were laid with the same practical paper tablecloths as outside. The only other furniture in the room was a tired blue dresser. Whilst the view through the open doorway to the warmly lit terrace outside was enticing, this room, with glimpses past a dark wicker screen into the kitchen, felt like the inner sanctum.

Signore Sforza spent more time front of house than in his kitchen, roaming from table to table asking, 'Va bene?' and cutting a formidable figure in long black apron and chef's clogs, with cropped grey hair and gaunt, stubble-covered jowls that barely moved when he smiled.

Just one of the dishes I ate was worth the cost of the entire meal: cinghiale dolce e forte – wild boar in a 'sweet and strong' sauce. There was no prettiness about its presentation. Half a dozen pieces – quite large chunks – of wild boar, smothered in a thick sauce so dark it was almost black, and dusted with cocoa. It smelled sweet, with a hint of warm spices. The boar was fork-tender, falling apart in delicious soft strings. There may have been roasted peppers somewhere deep down in the rich and complex sauce. There may have been cinnamon and vinegar. There were definitely pine nuts and chocolate. There were hints of a mole poblano, and again of a rendang... but only distant hints. This dish had firm Umbrian roots and was inextricably the product of Sforza's magic touch. It was quite simply the most delicious thing I had eaten for a very long time.

I also ate a timballo of aubergines and peppers and a dish of chicory and biettone on a bean purée which were good, would have been very good if I hadn't tasted the boar. That wild boar with its wild flavours.

Funny to think that a restaurant this good can get away with calling itself the Golden Donkey.

L'Asino D'Oro, Via del Popolo, 9, 05018 Orvieto (TR)

Tel 0763 344406

Sadly, I only seem to be able to find 'the same old' review websites referring to L'Asino, and as far as I know they don't have their own site. So you'll just have to go there.

STOP PRESS... ACTUALLY YOU CAN'T GO THERE NOW. WELL YOU CAN, BUT LUCIO SFORZA WON'T BE THERE ANY MORE. HE'S MOVED TO ROME AND OPENED A RESTAURANT THERE CALLED... L'ASINO D'ORO.